Planning a First Canal Boat Holiday

A holiday that runs at three miles an hour

The first thing to understand about a canal boat holiday is that you are not going far, and that is precisely the point. A narrowboat cruises at three to four miles an hour, which is walking pace on a good day. A comfortable day's travelling is twelve to twenty miles with a handful of locks, and if you plan for more than that you will spend the week chasing the clock instead of enjoying the view. First-timers almost always underestimate how much there is to look at from the back deck: herons, kingfishers, the backs of Victorian terraces, allotments, anglers who nod as you pass at tickover.

The learning curve is short but real. By the end of the first afternoon most people can steer a reasonably straight line, judge a bridge hole and bring the boat gently alongside a mooring. By day three, locks feel routine. The trick is to accept that everything happens slowly, and to allow for it.

Choosing a gentle route for a first trip

Route choice matters more than boat choice for a first holiday. Look for a canal with fewer locks, short distances between villages, and decent pubs within walking distance of the towpath.

• Count the locks, not the miles. A broad lock takes fifteen to twenty minutes with a competent crew; a staircase of narrow locks can swallow a whole morning. Ask the hire base for a realistic daily figure including locks.
• Consider a lock-free stretch. Some canals, such as the Ashby in Leicestershire, run for many miles without a single lock, which lets you concentrate on steering and mooring before you tackle any water-level changes.
• Long rings and there-and-back cruises are easier than circuits. A ring route looks appealing on the map but usually adds up to far more hours than a week allows. Turning around at a winding hole and retracing your steps is no failure at all.
• Add one highlight, not five. A famous aqueduct, a long tunnel or a flight of locks gives the week a shape. Trying to bag all three in seven days is a recipe for exhaustion.
• Think about short breaks. Three or four nights on a quiet stretch is an excellent trial run before committing to a fortnight.

Learn the locks before you set off

A lock is simply a chamber that raises or lowers your boat to the next level of the canal. You steer in, the crew closes the gates behind you, then opens the paddles to let water in or out. On a narrow canal lock there may be barely a foot of clearance either side, which is normal and entirely manageable if you take it slowly and keep the boat straight.

Ask the boatyard to walk you through a lock during the handover, which normally takes an hour or two and is time well spent. In particular, get to grips with these points:

• Ground paddles first, then gate paddles. Ground paddles let water in lower down and cause less turbulence. Opening a gate paddle too early on a filling lock sends a surge that can pin the boat against the wall.
• One hand on the windlass, always. Never leave a windlass on a raised paddle spindle, and never let go of one mid-wind.
• Nobody stands between the boat and the lock wall. Hands and feet should never be used to fend off a moving boat. Use a centre line from the shore instead.
• Check everyone is aboard or clearly clear before any paddle is opened.
• Leave gates and paddles as you found them unless signs say otherwise, and close gates behind you on the way out.

Pack light, and pack for four seasons

Storage on a narrowboat is clever but limited. Soft bags that squash flat are far better than rigid suitcases, and a wheeled case will be a misery on a gravel towpath. Layers beat bulk, because a sunny morning on the tiller can turn into a chilly, drizzly afternoon within an hour.

• Waterproof jacket and trousers, plus sturdy shoes with grip for lock work. Towpath edges are muddy and often slippery.
• Gloves for the windlass, and a head torch for evening mooring and tunnels.
• Sun cream, hat and insect repellent. Canal water and warm evenings go together.
• Far fewer clothes than you think. Most hire boats have no launderette, but there is usually a drying cupboard or a washing line on the roof.
• Medicines, chargers and a power bank. Battery charging is usually done by running the engine, so don't expect endless sockets.
• Light shopping, not a full pantry. Villages and small supermarkets are rarely far from the towpath, and a heavy shop has to be carried.

The rhythm of a day on board

Most crews settle into a pattern within a couple of days: up, breakfast, a couple of hours cruising, stop for lunch, another two or three hours, then moor by four or five in the afternoon while there is still light to hammer in pins. Fill the water tank every day or two, empty the toilet cassette or book a pump-out as instructed at handover, and take all rubbish away with you, as towpath bins are scarce.

Slow right down past moored boats, keep to the right when meeting oncoming craft, and moor clear of lock landings, water points, bridge holes and winding holes. Keep voices and music low after dark, and never leave a running engine to annoy your neighbours.

What it costs and when to book

A week's hire for a four to six berth boat typically runs from around £900 in early spring or late autumn to £1,800 or more in school holidays, with a refundable damage deposit and a fuel deposit on top. Short breaks and day boats are cheaper and a sensible first step. Book three to six months ahead for summer, or take a quiet week in May or September when the locks are less busy and the hedgerows are at their best.

Go with modest expectations, a flexible plan and a crew willing to take turns on the tiller, and you will come home wondering why you ever drove anywhere on holiday.